Long waves in and near the surf zone.
Four sets of field measurements were made of swell In and just seaward of the surf zone off a uniform sandy beach. Power spectra computed for both the pre-breakers and the foam lines revealed long waves associated with the swell having peak periods centered at approximately 80 seconds. Long wave...
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| Language: | en_US |
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Monterey, California. U.S. Naval Postgraduate School
2012
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| Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/10945/12568 |