The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth

It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the wave field is long crested, narrow banded and sufficiently steep. A reduction of third-order effects is however expected when the wave energy is distribu...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: A. Toffoli, M. Benoit, M. Onorato, E. M. Bitner-Gregersen
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Copernicus Publications 2009-02-01
Series:Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics
Online Access:http://www.nonlin-processes-geophys.net/16/131/2009/npg-16-131-2009.pdf