Bed shear stress coefficient within the surf zone
Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. === An analytical formulation of the bed shear stress coefficient inside the surf zone is derived using the concept of radiation stress. A truncated Rayleigh p.d.f. is used to describe the wave field inside the surf zone and provides the input...
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| Language: | en_US |
| Published: |
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
2012
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| Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/10945/18030 |
| Summary: | Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. === An analytical formulation of the bed shear stress coefficient
inside the surf zone is derived using the concept
of radiation stress. A truncated Rayleigh p.d.f. is used
to describe the wave field inside the surf zone and provides
the input to calculate the variation of wave energy and longshore
current as a function of wave height, water depth and
distance to shore. The wave set-up is approximated using a sinusoidal wave solution. Field measurements of longshore
current and waves within the surf zone are used to calculate
the bed shear stress coefficient. The data consist of 647
data points selected from LEO program and 62 data points
from Ingle (1966) observations, all taken along the Southern
California coast. Frequency distributions and statistics
are calculated for the bed shear stress coefficient. A mean
bed shear stress coefficient to two significant decimal
places is found to be 0.01. |
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