Field Observation of setup

Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. === Setup is defined as the superelevation of mean water surface within the surfzone and is caused by the reduction in wave momentum shoreward of the breaking point and compensating positive pressure gradient. Data were acquired north of Scripp...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Yemm, Sean P.
Other Authors: Thornton, Edward B.
Format: Others
Published: Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School 2012
Subjects:
Online Access:http://hdl.handle.net/10945/1485
Description
Summary:Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. === Setup is defined as the superelevation of mean water surface within the surfzone and is caused by the reduction in wave momentum shoreward of the breaking point and compensating positive pressure gradient. Data were acquired north of Scripps Canyon on a gently sloping section of beach, which was homogenous in along-shore morphology, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment, 2004. Pressure sensors were deployed both above and below the bed. Wave heights and radiation stress (wave-induced momentum) were calculated using linear theory transfer functions. Wave heights measured using pressure sensors in the water column had a positive bias compared with the buried pressure sensors, which it is presumed due to the Bernoulli effect of flow past the orifices. Predicted setup based on numerically solving the cross-momentum equation forced with the measured radiation stresses underestimates the observed setup by 40 percent in the mean. This is consistent with previous studies. === Lieutenant, United States Navy