| Summary: | The application of softeners to textile is known to enhance the fabric handle. In this study the potential for novel softeners, commonly used in the cosmetic industries, has been investigated with a view to improving the textile handle and also imparting a protective effect against wear abrasion. To assess Cotton and Tencel fabric handle and wear strength objectively, the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and the Martindale Flat Abrasion instrument have been utilised. In addition a novel Y am-on-Y am abrasion system has been developed to assess dry and wet abrasion. Both beneficial and detrimental effects have been demonstrated on the cellulosic substrates by the application of softeners and the performance behaviour has been discussed. As part of the project an experimental rinse conditioner formulation for domestic laundering was evaluated and its effectiveness in comparison to a standard formulation studied. However, little benefit was observed in terms of fabric handle and the ineffective behaviour investigated using the surface sensitive analytical technique, Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). ToF-SIMS was able to characterise a range of softeners demonstrate their substantivity to the cellulosic substrate and the preferential adsorption of a cationic imidazoline softener at the fibre surface. The Y am-on-Y am abrasion system has been used successfully to probe the wet fibrillation of reneel yams and has the appropriate sensitivity and reproducibility to differentiate between fibre erosslinking regions and non-crosslinking reagents. The influence of reactive dyes, crease resist finishes and novel colourless cross linking has been investigated and the behaviour related to the level of fibre crosslinking. The affect of softeners on abrasion performance has also been evaluated and their affects on wet and dry yam abrasion established.
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