”Blåtrya af wallmar och en gammal struttmössa” : Kontinuitet och förändring i Leksands mansdräkt 1770–1870

• Main Author: Gullback, Johanna
• Format: Others
• Language: Swedish
• Published: Uppsala universitet, Textilvetenskap 2021
• Subjects: Folk costume; Peasant clothing; Men’s clothing; Leksand; Dalecarlia; Probate inventories; Textile studies; Local cultural identity; Tradition; Folkdräkt; Leksandsdräkt; Mansdräkt; Bouppteckningar; Textilvetenskap; Lokal kulturell identitet; Other Humanities not elsewhere specified; Övrig annan humaniora
• Online Access: http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-455320

This master's thesis explores the continuity and change of the men's folk costume in Leksand parish, Dalecarlia, between 1770–1870. It also investigates societal changes as a reason for these changes and uses the theory of local cultural identity and tradition as explanatory models for continuity and change. Primary sources include probate inventories, extant garments, depictions and written records from the time. The investigation reveals that the probate inventories show both continuity and change in the men's clothing possessions. New garments and materials appear during the latter period, 1850–1870, but the combined sources suggest a parallel usage with the more traditional garments and materials, for some time. The lack of dating of the extant garments made the use of depictions crucial, to be able to see the small changes the garments have gone through over the years. In general, the extant garments and depictions show continuity as well as small changes. The new garments and materials can be seen as the beginning of a transition into non-local, fashionable costumes. When comparing how this transition manifested in the neighbouring parish, Åhl, differences in time and process can be seen. Further comparisons are also made to other areas of Sweden, to highlight differences and similarities.