| Summary: | 碩士 === 正修科技大學 === 化妝品與時尚彩妝研究所 === 107 === This dissertation ues the leaves of Country Borage and Perilla which are common plants in Taiwan to extract by two extraction methods: (1) Pure water heating and reflux and(2) supercritical carbon dioxide. In addtions, this dissertation discuss the extraction fraction and antioxidant capacity of above mentioned extraction methods and further research for the comparison of whitening and moisturizing effect with two extraction methods.
Research result, The extraction fraction was highest in Country Borage pure water extract (15.22±0.76%), followed by Perilla pure water extract (10.80±0.54%), Country Borage supercritical extract (3.33±0.19%) and Perilla supercritical extract (2.03±0.38%). With GC/MS analysis, supercritical extracts contains a variety of antioxidants, Country Borage did not find the whitening moisturizing ingredients of the literature; Perilla found whitening ingredients Ferulic Acid, moisturizing ingredients Squalene. With HPLC analysis, the pure water extracts of Country Borage and Perilla had peak waves at the detection range of 245±5 nm. In Antioxidant ability test, using vitamin C as the standard to implement the DPPH free radical scavenging ability experiment, the extract with Perilla pure water extract (IC50=0.0396±0.00011 mg/mL) clearance rate is best, followed by Country Borage fragrance pure water extract (IC50=0.0442±0.00013 Mg/mL), Country Borage supercritical extraction (IC50=0.4126±0.00118 mg/mL), Perilla supercritical extraction (IC50=0.4962±0.00141 mg/mL). In the free radical scavenging capacity of ABTS, Trolox was used as the standard and the pure extract of Perilla (IC50=0.0938±0.00014 mg/mL; TEAC=0.2404 mM) was the best, followed by Country Borage pure water extract (IC50=0.1113±0.00016 mg/ mL; TEAC=0.1976 mM), Country Borage supercritical extraction (IC50=0.5753±0.00086 mg/mL; TEAC=0.0330 mM), Perilla supercritical extraction (IC50=0.7559±0.00113 mg/mL; TEAC=0.0285 mM). The total phenolic content test was implemented by using Gallic acid as the standard. In total phenolic content test, the total phenolic content of the extracts from different extraction methods was the highest in the pure extract of Perilla (166.06±0.59 mg/GAE g), followed by Country Borage pure water extract (143.40±0.76 mg/GAE g), Country Borage supercritical extract (88.71±1.24 mg/GAE g), Perilla supercritical extract (67.20±0.97 mg/GAE g). In the vitro inhibition of tyrosinase experiment, using Arbutin as standard and the extract inhibition rate at the same concentration (1.0mg/mL) was extracted with Perilla pure water (53.13±0.21%) was the highest, followed by Country Borage pure water extract (44.79±0.26%), Country Borage supercritical extract (23.44±0.07%), and Perilla supercritical extract (19.73±0.11%). The hygroscopicity of the extract experiment was implemented by hyaluronic acid and glycerol as the standard. The absorption rate of the extracts of different extraction methods was the highest in Country Borage pure water extract (25.50±0.09%), followed by the pure extract of Perilla (23.22±0.11%), supercritical extraction of Perilla (1.91±0.03%), supercritical extraction of Country Borage aroma (1.32±0.02%). In the whitening and moisturizing efficacy test, the degree of skin melanin decline and skin redness decreased is most significant in the pure water extract of Perilla (-48.17±0.69% / -30.68±0.23%), followed by Country Borage pure water extract (-45.04±0.35% / -29.69±0.26%), supercritical extraction of Perilla (-19.12±0.11% / -25.45±0.19%), Country Borage supercritical extraction (-18.11±0.13% / -23.53±0.18%). In skin water dispersion loss and skin protection experiment, the degree of wet rise was the highest in Country Borage pure water extract (-68.04±0.28% / 31.82±0.13%), followed by Perilla pure water extract (-46.73±0.22% / 30.62±0.16%) and Perilla supercritical extract (-41.18±0.20 % / 26.35±0.19%), Country Borage supercritical extract (-33.33±0.16% / 26.69±0.21%).
Keywords： Country Borage, Perilla, Antioxidant, whitening, Moisturizing
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