Summary: | 碩士 === 大仁科技大學 === 生物科技研究所 === 105 === The objective of this study is to explore the skin-whiteining effect of the rhizome extract of five Zingiberaceae, including Etlingera elatior (torch ginger 火炬薑) , Zingiber spectabile Griff (蜂巢薑), Zingiber zerumbet (紅球薑), Alpinia galanga (南薑) and Zingiber officinale Roscoe (薑). Their additive effect on modified seven-white formula containing Bletia formosana (白芨), Atractylodes macrocephala (白朮), Ampelopsis Radix (白蘞), Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (白芍), Smilax glabra Roxb. (白茯苓), root of Typhonium giganteum Engl. (白附子) and Herba Taxilli Chinensis (桑寄生) was also studied. The 25 and 50% ethanol extract of above five rhizomes or rhizome-incorporated modified seven-white formula ingredients were dried and tested as aqueous solution for tyrosinase inhibition and DPPH radical scavenging activity. The extract with the best anti-tyrosinase activity was also tested for skin-whitening effectiveness in facial gel mask form.
A secondary objective of this study was to develop a facial gel mask formula for assessing the skin-whitening efficiency of the extracts of Chinese herbal ingredients. In this study, mixture of - and -carrageenan was selected as the matrix material to develop formulation for facial gel masks.
It was found that, while screening for anti-oxidation efficacy, at the 500 µg/mL concentration, the 50% ethanol extract of rhizomes of E. elatior and A. galanga demonstrated the best DPPH-scavenging ability among rhixome extracts, showing 65.36±% and 44.25±% scavenging rate, respectively. Among ethanol extract of zinger-rhizome incorporated, modified seven-white formulae, the 50% ethanol extract of E. elatior-incorporated, and Z. spectabile Griff-incorporated, modified seven-white formulae demonstrated the best DPPH-scavenging effect, showing 54.23±0.21% and 50.12±0.86% inhibition rate, respectively, and the former is a better DPPH-scavenger than the modified seven-white formula (52.48±0.86%).
In terms of anti-tyrosinase efficiency, at the 500 µg/mL concentration, among rhizome extracts, the 50% ethanol extract of E. elatior and A. galangal exhibited the best antityrosinase efficiency with 66.22±2.63% and 51.20±3.26% inhibition rate, respectively. Among ethanol extract of zinger-rhizome incorporated, modified seven-white formulae, the 50% ethanol extract of E. elatior-incorporated, and Z. spectabile Griff-incorporated, modified seven-white formulae demonstrated the best anti-tyrosinase effect, showing 72.18±4.19% and 58.54±3.56% inhibition rate, respectively, both exceeded that of the modified seven-white formula (54.48±0.86%). Their anti-tyrosinase IC50 is determined to be 88 and 129 µg/mL, respectively.The former is superior than that of -arbutin (IC50 ~112 µg/mL).
During the development of facial gel mask formula based on carrageenan matrix, our best formulation consisted of mixture of -carrageenan/ -carrageenan in 0.67 : 1 weight ratio, and the incorporation of 5% PVA as adhesion promoter, and the formula was mixed at 80℃temperature, than allowed to gel in mold on cooling. The 48 hour water loss rate was determined as 2.08±0.05%。
During a four weeks test, 10 female and four male volunteers, age 19–45, applied twice daily, for 25 min, facial gel mask containing 500 g/mL 50% ethanol extract of E. elatior rhizome-incorporated, modified seven-white formula. At the end of four weeks, except one female volunteer reported minor allergic effect, 40% of the volunteers showed improvement in Fitzpatrick skin tone type 。
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