| Summary: | 碩士 === 台南應用科技大學 === 生活應用科學研究所 === 102 === Taiwanese garment is underneath the challenge of global competition and going to be low profit era. Facing the new material by leaps and bounds, the most important thing on accepting orders on successful or failure is the technical core and the sample of approval speed in order to produce the bulk goods smoothly and exporting on time. The first point on making sample is that the fabric factory must provide the bulk sample of quality which is controlling the sources as well as the fabric of warp and weft have to be reach standard and fabric mill can expert fabric to the garment factory.General standard on the pattern of pants divides one pant and two patterns (diagonally left and right hand side of front piece need to be symmetrical as well as diagonally left and right hand side of back piece). Pattern of the type grain line cutting is correct, fabric of warp and weft fabric are vertical, horizontal textured is good, trouser legs on the left and right side can be symmetrical, pants are not showing WALKING LEGS phenomenon. On the other hand, because the factory knits fabric and lose controlling on the way of process or changing in physical properties of fabrics, the fabric is serious causing grain line cutting of skewed weft then branching pipe of pants on making will show WALKING LEGS phenomenon and this case is a big problem on fabric factory and garment industry. Facing the two-way stretch of fabric is the skewed weft situation after washing and there is still no good way to deal with. Therefore: In this study, using one pants on two pattern and grain line cutting on exact Grey first in order to make sample of pants and then wash it in spite of inspecting the pattern, making sure the correct fabric and it will not produce WALKING LEGS phenomenon on branching pipe of pants. Then using 1.75-3 inches of fabric (fabric width is 52 inches) for skewed weft of grain line cutting to divide four pieces of pants from centerline of front piece and back piece and fix the pattern, the purpose is solving WALKING LEGS problems caused by two-way stretch of fabric making of pants after washing. The result can be showed that according to the skew-angle of grain line cutting on branching pipe and correcting side seam, it can adjust skew-angle of grain line cutting on diagonally right、 left、 front and back side of pattern and using the pattern of on pants with four pattern making then the problem will solve out. Furthermore, the method will avoid the complicated procedure of returning fabric to original factory to re-fix the warp and weft line, waiting material or stop working in the garment factory and the loss of delivery is not following on time, and the result would be efficient process also helpful for garment industry.
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