| Summary: | 碩士 === 嘉南藥理大學 === 化粧品應用與管理系 === 102 === Many different types of mask cosmetics such as gel, wax, and emulsion were commercially available. Among these masks products, mask emulsions with clay are the most wildly used thanks to their efficacy. Using mask creams make the skin more texture and much better rubicundity. It is well known that wherever masks is useful for skin beauty or not is determined by their qualities. When the masks contain a great of amounts of clay, the suspension system may lead to the solution of settling problems and many problems such as poor coverage and brush marks,However, there is a little publication on the influence of varying masks on handling and physicochemical properties. This had led to the development of elegant mask creams and established a method measuring handling of the mask creams.
The purpose of the study was to evaluate the influence of various kinds of components such as varying emulsifiers, a triglyceride (Aloe oil), kaolin, titanium oxide, humectants, stabilizer and pigment on the storage stability and the usage of the masks. In order to formulate the elegant masks, we selected Span(Sorbitan Monolaurate)/ Tween(Polysorbate) as a emulsifier because it provides the masks body bright and good rheological behavior. Their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, color appearance, and water lose were evaluated. In addition, handling properties such as, coverage, removal, and dryness were also tested and evaluation while a mask cream was rubbed to volunteer’s arms. To do this, a photograph of the measuring test area on volunteer’s arms was taken by the digital camera and illuminating tubes which is placed in a wooden box.
In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that the mixture of humectants can result in the decreasing lose in water content of the mask creams. When Sunclear T40 AQS(oily form) was replaced by the mixture of Kaolin with powder TiO2, the mask cream with even coverage were obtained and there are acceptable physicochemical properties. A reasonable viscosity is ranging from 3300cps to 4500cps to have a good rubbing. Adding 3% Aloe oil improves the body of the mask creams. Total color difference (ΔE) of obtained masks arrive 0.95 at 0.21% of pigment (commercial mask cream as a control). Obviously, the color change is invisible. Finally, storage stability can be improved by adding stabilizer such as Sigel 305(Polyacrylamide/C13.14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and PemulenTM TR-2(Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer).
Based on these findings, a desired mask cream was obtained. With a good rubbing and, stability at 45℃ testing for 32 days, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of Span 3%, Tween 2%, DM5 2.1%, CM040 2%, Finsolv TN 1%, Stearic acid 0.4%, Cetyl alcohol 0.6%, Mineral oil 2.3%, C.C.T 2.5%, Unimer U-15 0.7%, Aloe oil 3%, Vite E 0.3%, Pemulen TR-2 Polymer 0.2%, Xanthan gum 0.6%, EDTA.2Na 0.05%, Glycerin 1%, Propylene Glycol 2%, Hyaluronic Acid 2%, Prodew 400 2.5%, Kaolin 3%, TiO2 5%, Pigment0.21%, Saligerm G2 0.8%, Triethanolamine Q.S, D.W 62.54%。
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