| Summary: | 碩士 === 國立臺北大學 === 古典文獻與民俗藝術研究所民俗藝術組 === 101 === Daxi Dòu Gān（豆干） is well known to everyone, and people must taste this snack on Daxi （大溪）trip. However, Dòu Gān in Daxi is not just a snack. Traditionally, time and occasion of eating Dòu Gān is occurred after sacrifice in the festivals or important life ritual customs according to arrangement in this study. Dòu Gān has become one of sacrificial offerings, combined with pork and the entire chicken, the precious food in life, which local people called such a custom “Còu Shēng”（湊牲）. Using Dòu Gān as “Còu Shēng” in sacrificial offerings is applicable to sacrifice in the festivals or important life ritual customs, for example, make offerings of food to worship ancestor in four seasons, offer sumptuous food in monthly syzygy, worship earth god and the soldier spirits to guard a place and appease the ghosts of those non-owners, etc.; using in life ritual customs is applicable to protect children from the god evil spirit, worship the shí diàn yán wáng（十殿閻王）on the funeral and please gods, sacrifice dead in various merits, change fortune and avoid evil spirits, etc.. Besides Dòu Gān can be used in “Còu Shēng ”, most Zhangzhou Hakka Chinese（漳州客） in Daxi area will eat light vegetables including Dòu Gān and spinach, etc. as breakfast in the first day of Lunar New Year, and purchase a large number of Dòu Gān as vegetarian food to appeal disciples in the temple fair activities.
Dòu Gān used in Còu Shēng reflects its preciousness and respectability representing worshiper’s religious mind. Such a custom is not formed until those people live in Daxi. This study arranged family tree of local Chinese ethnic group in Daxi, describing migratory route of local Chinese in Daxi. After fieldwork and investigation of Hakka（客家） communities’ populated areas in Taiwan Daxi and Fujian（福建） Zhangzhou（漳州） Shaoan（詔安）, Pinghe（平和） and Nanjing（南靖）, etc. as well as native area in Fujian Dingzhou（汀州）, etc., food culture of Dòu Gān in three areas is found from the comparison that manufacturing technology, food culture and custom application extremely have inheritance relationship. Dòu Gān in the aforesaid areas can be used in” Còu Shēng ”; its manufacturing technology and shape characteristic reflect that Dòu Gān has sacrifice and dietary functions.
This study reserves Dòu Gān food culture in Daxi area to record completely. Partial Dòu Gān custom is found loss in native area in Fujian or other Zhangzhou Hakka communities’ populated areas in Taiwan on field investigation. It shows Daxi is an area where the current Dòu Gān custom is well reserved. It’s expected this study can show plentiful food culture and custom contents of Dòu Gān to the world, adding the glory to splendid Daxi history and culture.
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