| Summary: | 博士 === 靜宜大學 === 應用化學系 === 100 === This research was using different emollients combine with different sun filters. By changing their dosage of materials, we investigated whether or not to affect the SPF value and UVA/UVB ratio of sun care products. At first, we selected 12 emollients and combined with 4 UV filters. We tested their SPF value and UVA/UVB ratio separately in O/W and W/O emulsions.
Discovered in different emulsions system from emollients portfolio, it is easy to see that UV filters combined with Finsolv TN can gain good SPF value and UVA/UVB ratio. Because Finsolv TN is a powder’s dispersant and can help to disperse sunscreen powders have better dispersity in emulsions system, so it has good synergistic effect to boost SPF value. From sun filters portfolio, we had these results. It is common to see in O/W emulsions, DHHB combined with OMC can have better SPF value. And in W/O emulsions, when we combine OMC with T805 can gain better SPF value. Due to DHHB has great protection effect from UV free radicals, it can help to increase SPF value in UVB sun filters portfolio.T 805 is an oil-dispersed sunscreen powders, so it has good effect in W/O emulsions.
From the combination test by emollients and UV filters, Finsolv TN has shown several times and taken places in top 5 items. Furthermore, it has good synergistic effect with other emollients. In UVA/UVB ratio, the combination of sun filters is the main impact. Results has shown Finsolv TN also help to increase UVA/UVB ratio.
When we come to discuss sun care formulation, DHHB combined with OMC and T 805 can gain better SPF value. As a consequence, DHHB can help to boost SPF value for UVB sun filters. When exposure by sun light, OMC’s UV protection will be decreased. When we combined OMC with Tinosorb M has better SPF value compared to T 805, because Tinosorb M has photo stabilizing effect and can help to stabilize other sun filters. Tinosorb M and DHHB has UVA-absorption. When we combined Tinosorb M and DHHB, their UVA/UVB value is excellent.
When we discussed the efficacy test of microencapsulated sun filter, after encapsulation process, the SPF value has significant increase in W/O formulation up to 339.61%. The photo decay rate comparison from before and after encapsulation is increased to 78%. In O/W formulation, it has strong increased after encapsulation up to 98%. Comparing photo decay rate, it is increase up to 70% after encapsulation. As a consequence, we proved that by encapsulation, we can decrease the damage from UV-light to sun filters and increase the stability of chemical sun filters.
By transdermal diffusion experiments, we had found that OMC is easier to absorbed by human body compared to DHHB. Also, the cytotoxicity of OMC is very small. After MTT assay in 50 μM, the cell viability is over 80%. So OMC is easier to absorb by human body by transdermal diffusion tests, but due to its low cytotoxicity level, it is not harmful to human. But DHHB has medium cytotoxicity level, the cell viability is only 50.50% by MTT assay. After encapsulation, it can help to decrease its cytotoxicity level to 22%.
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