| Summary: | 碩士 === 國立中央大學 === 客家語文研究所 === 100 === Abstract
Along with the rise of ethnic consciousness and the promotion of local culture after the Hakka movement was widely spread, Hakka diet quickly became very opular in Taiwan，s catering industry. More and more people talked about the Hakka diet culture enthusiastically. Hakka diet slowly turned into a well-liked trend. Nevertheless, researches regarding Hakka dietary literature are still in the starting stage. It is because there are not many researches in the field of Hakka literature that use diet as the main research topic and discuss the implications of the cultural and spiritual aspects systematically. Therefore, Hakka dietary literature is the research scope of the thesis. It is hoped that the family tree of the development of Hakka diet culture can be developed by means of diachronic research and that the social, cultural, political and economic aspects represented by Hakka diet culture can be sorted out by means of synchronic research.
The thesis is divided into seven chapters. Chapter 1: Introduction. Section 1 plains the research topic and describes the research motivation and purpose. Section 2 efines the research scope and method. Section 3 gives literature review and discussion while working on the collection, analysis and discussion of existed academic researches regarding issues related to Hakka dietary literature and diet culture in Taiwan.
Chapter 2: Changes in Hakka Diet Culture. The changes in diet culture are discussed using Hakka dietary literature from Taiwan and the family tree of the development of Hakka dietary literature is established to sort out the context for the development. The Chapter covers: (1) From Tangshan﹙唐山﹚ to Taiwan – The diet style during the immigration period was highly related to the land reclamation situation; (2) Japanese Colonial Period﹙日治時代﹚ – After the Kominka Movement﹙皇民化運動﹚ was implemented in Taiwan, the colony diets that varied in different classes were formed which in turn led to many livelihood Issues in terms of policy, economy, society and culture; (3) Early Revival Period﹙光復初期﹚ – Due to political chaos after the war, the difficult poverty situation was continued from the wartime. Similar to other diet culture in Taiwan, the Hakka diet culture showed the post-colonial diet phenomenon. After the Nationalist Government moved to taiwan in 1949, the Hakka diet culture underwent integration with other diet cultures in provinces in China due to intermarriage and cohabitation which led to gradual changes in the quality and quantity; (4) Development of Contemporary Hakka Diet Culture﹙當代客家飲食的發展﹚ – Under the impacts of Hakka Movement, ethnic integration and internationalization, Hakka people had lightened their traditional eating habit of having oily, aromatic, salty and rich flavor after mixing with other ethnic groups in the post-modern days. They replaced the old eating habit with the light meal-oriented healthy dietary pattern claimed by modern people.
Chapter 3: Diet and Literature of Hakka Mountainous Culture. This chapter focuses on the diet style of Hakka people’s unique mountainous culture. The research point lies in the relationship between Hakka people and mountainous culture and discusses the way Hakka people used natural resources to make meals and created the unique diet philosophy in the geological environment and time where everything was in shortage.
Chapter 4: Taiwanese Hakka Flavor. Literature is used to discuss the food traits of salted vegetable, pickled cucumber, dried radish and rice noodle which have Hakka symbols and the mountainous dietary pattern formed by Hakka people eating wild animals, common vegetables and whatever that was edible. The classical four stew and four fried dishes that best represent the Hakka cuisine was developed as the Hakka diet culture is closely related to their religious belief and folk festival,
Chapter 5: Research on Tea Literature. Tea is Hakka people’s main cash crop and significant cultural symbol. This chapter focuses on exploring the changes in the history of Hakka people’s tea drinking culture and the relationship between Hakka people’s society and culture and ethnic-presenting Lei Cha, Oriental Beauty and Sour Orange Tea while explicating the genre of tea literature.
Chapter 6: Writing about Modern Hakka Dietary Literature. This chapter focuses on the discussion on nostalgic documentary, Hakka women’s dietary image, collective memory and ethnic identity as well as dietary literature promotion. In nostalgic documentary, the flavor of private home dish was attempted to be found by remembering and thinking about home and the collective memory and ethnic identity were called upon via the symbols of Hakka dishes. In terms of Hakka women’s dietary image, they were often requested to have the ability to cook in the old days. Moreover, in the world called love, they showed unflinching sentiment for the better half and the family. As resulted, the image of traditional Hakka women being industrious, thrifty, hardworking and sacrificing was also established. In addition to trying to find the cohesiveness of collective memory and ethnic identity by writing about food, Hakka writers also market and expand the diverse aspects of Hakka diet via the stories and the promotion of dietary literature. Moreover, Hakka writers also show the rich cultural content of Hakka diet in their articles.
Chapter 7: Conclusion. The discussions and afterthoughts of all chapters are concluded in this chapter. In terms of the diet culture during the early immigration period, Hakka people, who were said to be the minor ethnic group, relied on themselves and the idea of appreciating what one has under the difficult situation where everything was in shortage while developing many unique dishes for the Hakka diet culture using the concept of recycling and reusing. Moreover, in the modern days where internationalization is highly emphasized, the Hakka diet has changed from having oily, aromatic, salty and rich flavor to having tolerant taste buds for many other cuisines after mixing with other diet cultures in the post-modern days. The new era for Hakka diet culture has thus began.
Keywords: Hakka literature, Dietary literature, Mountainous culture, Hakka tea, Post-modern diet, Hakka women
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