| Summary: | 博士 === 國立交通大學 === 應用藝術研究所 === 100 === In the study of the fashion trends and image formation of male fashion styles, though the speed of the replacement cycle and fashion change is far less obvious than female fashion, fine fashion changes can still be observed in male fashion presented in different seasons and years. After such long-term or short-term cycle subjective judgment, or objective factor comparison and analysis, we can conclude the suitable adaptive design principles and the elements of form for male fashion designs. However, the attribute of most publications of fashion study reports and literature is subject criticisms or observational opinions. For example, in his study on the image of male employees, male and female employee fashion image scholar Forsythe (1990) discovered that clothes with modern and masculine images can help employees to find a job more easily. Forsythe (1990) further categorized male fashion with positive male symbols: blazers made with plain fabrics in a dim or cold tone and jackets with an intelligent sense. In general, most studies were conducted through interviews, and their conclusions are rather rough and subjective. The motivation of this study attempts to find if a more persuasive scientific verifications can be achieved by using more objective methods of research in exploring fashion images in addition to a qualitative study. That is, Kansei Engineering is applied to the systemic study of fashion-related issues in order to develop more accurate and richer academic theories for fashion design. The aim of this study is to establish the perceive space in images of male suit styles; and to infer the adaptive design principles through comparison and analysis of the correlations among the elements of suit styles as a reference for practical suit style image design.
In fashion design, form image is the most important factor. Regarding the form image of fashion, texture image is the prime affecting factor. Especially for men’s suits, there is not much variation in their shape and style; therefore, the fabrics used in making them determine their texture image. For this reason, this research probed into the texture image of suit fabrics. First, quality analysis and comparison of the image of the suit’s look were conducted to deduce the consumer’s and designer’s common understanding of the prototype of men’s suit. Meanwhile, the frequently used fabrics for making men’s suit were collected. From them, 61 fabrics were selected as tested samples for this study. With
expert interview and literature review, the morphological chart of the patterns, weave, and color of the fabrics and 16
related adjective pairs were conc1uded. Then, the experiments of semantic differential (SD) evaluation on the image of these fabric samples as well as of grouping samples with similar fabric texture were conducted. With factor analysis on the SD evaluation data, an image space with four constituting factors was yielded. By examining the distribution of fabric samples in this space, the relationship between the physical features concerning the texture image and the people’s feeling of the image were concluded. Furthermore, this research has figured out a three dimensional perceptual space of texture image of suit fabrics through multidimensional scaling (MDS) analysis on the data collected from the similarity grouping experiment. Based on these results, certain principles for the design of image for men’s suits with proper fabrics were proposed.
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