| Summary: | 碩士 === 弘光科技大學 === 化妝品科技研究所 === 100 === Following the solid lipid nanostructured, nanostructured lipid carriers（NLC） was developed as new carrier system type these years. In this study, combined hot homogenization and sonication technique was employed to produce Nanostructured lipid carriers（NLC）.The influences of mixed lipid composition, phase ratio of emulsion, homogenization speed and time on both particle size and other physicochemical properties of the NLC were characterized by using Laser Particle Size Analyzer and thermogravimetric analysis. As a result, this combined technique Sonication Technigue provides 34.60 % particle size reduction with narrow particle size distributions behave under temperature 80 ℃. On the other hands, the faster stirring speed and longer homogenization time makes smaller particle size. The size of nanostructured lipid carriers（NLC）was significantly influenced by homogenization speed and time. As 3000 rpm/20 min. homogenization condition increased up to 9000 rpm/40 min., the obtained particles showed pronounced 59.15 % particle size reduction. Stabled thermal property of NLC was verified by thermogravimetric analysis（TGA）under temperature 130 ℃condition. These results indicated that the NLC in this study produced by combined technique under optimal conditions could potentially be exploited as a cosmetic active carrier with narrow particle size distribution and thermally stable properties.
Cosmetic activity of alcoholic crude extract of stem and leave of Eleutherococcus Senticosus, and its water, ethyl acetate and hexane partial fractions（E-W, E-EA and E-Hex）were evaluated in this study. E-W extract possess highest DPPH radical scavenging effect（IC50:6.57 mg/ml）.The DPPH radical scavenging effect of E-Hex and E-EA were 7.99 mg/ml and 10.00 mg/ml. The inhibit rate of E-W was 40 % which showed stronger values than Scutellaria baicalensis in 500 ppm concentration. The total amount of phenolic compounds of E-W extract (480.90 mg of GAE /g) is much higher than E-EA（411.60 mg of GAE /g） and E-Hex（299.90 mg of GAE /g）. The performance of E-W was better than and Scutellaria baicalensis which was well-known anti-oxidation property. E-W partition fraction presented inhibition of tyrosinase activity at the IC50 value of 2.42 mg/ml, showed higher whitening potential than the reference of Scutellaria baicalensis under concentration of 2.70 mg/g condition. The SPF-boosting properties of extracts were evaluated by in vitro SPF assay. Results shows formulation contains E-W fraction, boosted the SPF value from 21.32 ± 5.44 (without E-W) to 36.23 ± 6.69 (with 3% E-W). The SPF value increased 41.2% compared with the without E-W one. The larger additive of E-W concentration caused higher SPF value.
Summarily, our study showed that the SPF of sun block with NLC, NLC-5 was 34.82 higher than without NLC one, Base-5（23.99）.The SPF value of NLC-5 increased 30.10 % compared with the Base-5. The Abs（358nm） value of sun block with NLC, NLC-5 was 1.358 higher than without NLC one, Base-5 (1.156). The SPF of sun block with extract of Eleutherococcus Senticosus was 49.03 ± 4.91 increasing 30.10 % compared with the Base-5. The sun block adding extract of Eleutherococcus Senticosus had well anti-oxidation property and UV protective capability.
Our study verified that the physical property of sun block with NLC had well performance. After Transdermal delivery analysis, the new component not only reduced the damage of chemical sun block agent, but also couldn’t cause allergic reaction because of nothing of carrier permeating the skin. The new effective component could be applied in cosmetics application with anti-oxidation property, white and SPF enhancement.
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