Photoprotective effects of Chinese herbal extracts on sunscreen formulations

• Main Authors: Pi-Fang Lee, 李碧芳
• Other Authors: Ching-Gong Lin
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2008
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/20912341447054588973

碩士 === 嘉南藥理科技大學 === 化妝品科技研究所 === 96 === According previous studies show ultraviolet filters after UV irradiation that they be destruct and unstable. The results degrade sunscreen effect also penetrate to skin getting irritation symptom. We know that sunscreen products can’t offer absolutely isolation from UV damage; partial UV penetrates to induce ROS free radical reaction in skin. Between free radical and cell mediation cause cell damage. In this study , Both oil in water emulsion(O/W) and water in oil emulsion(W/O) formulations use same dosage UV filters to discuss sun protection factor (SPF)change and enhancement. In addiction, three kinds of Chinese herbal extracts (HA, HB, HC) be claim for anti-oxidation and anti-free radial functional ability adding in sunscreen lotions; to find SPF value and erythema also melanin change. We are looking forward to find high SPF value and high UVA protection the best composition; also it decrease UV filters dosage at the same time. Labsphere UV1000S be used for SPF evaluation in vitro. Plasmid DNA with H2O2 after UV irradiation causing damage be a model for photo-protection. Multiport model 601-150W be use for Minimal Erythema Dosage (MED) evaluation in vivo. These methods make sure sunscreen lotions for UV protection. These parameters in vitro test: 3% Parsol MCX, 2% Parsol 1789, 5% pure TiO2 sunscreen lotion get SPF 33.21 for O/W type; get SPF 51.99 for W/O type. On plasmid DNA with H2O2 after UV irradiation causing damage test; SPF 13.2 getting 18.05% protective effect, SPF 33.21 to get 50.89% protective effect. Higher SPF value sunscreen lotions show better photoprotection in UVB wavelength. In vivo test get similar SPF 12 at same dosage UV filters but different (O/W, W/O) type emulsion. Between in vitro and in vivo test; when SPF become higher, distinctively much. Otherwise containing Chinese herbal extracts HA, HB, HC sunscreen lotions that we observe SPF value and erythema change. In vitro test, O/W type sunscreen lotions get SPF 31.87-42.95; W/O type sunscreen lotions get SPF 33.7-55.61.Chinese herbal extracts 1% HA adds in previous sunscreen lotions; both two types emulsion, we get higher than SPF 14.4 in vivo. According in vitro and in vivo test results; in vitro test, we know that same dosage UV filters W/O perform better than O/W for SPF value nearly 20, but we can’t find the same result in vivo test. If we trust high SPF protective effect in vitro; we will severely get sunburn after UV irradiation. Plasmid DNA model provide a convenient method for sunscreen products photoprotective evaluation. The result is more closely in vivo test compare with in vitro test. Chinese herbal extracts 1% HA sunscreen lotion. We can’t find SPF value enhancement in vitro, but it truly delay for erythema appearance also erythema insistence shorter in vivo. When we design sunscreen products formulation: The measurement of diffuse transmittance only a part of reference in vitro ;because it can’t read UV inducing erythema and cell damage. In fact, they are warning for photoaging and skin cancer. Chinese herbal extract HA serve as natural alternatives for photopro- tection and dose suitable UV filters that they be use for best sunscreen formulations in future.