Review of Ancient Literatures on Cosmetic Herbs and Study of Zicao Application in Cosmetics

• Main Authors: Man-Jau Chang, 張曼釗
• Other Authors: 張永勳
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2008
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/88708192943941163155

博士 === 中國醫藥大學 === 中國藥學研究所 === 96 === The Chinese herb containing cosmetic products have been increasing in the market. Certainly, it is necessary to have evidence to prove the formulation, safety, usage and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics. The safety and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics can be confirmed by the modern research technics, but the records from ancient literatures or textbooks were one of the feasible methods. In this study, we try to establish a model to develop Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products. In the first part of this study, we reviewed the ancient literatures to provide list of Chinese herbs for use in cosmetic formulations. In the second part of this study, we choose the Zicao (Arnebia euchroma (AE) and Lithospermum erythrorhizon (LE)) to evaluate the antioxidant activities of aqueous and methanolic extracts of the roots of AE and LE by Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) test, DPPH staining test, Free radical scavenging capacity (RSC), and reducing power method. We also analyzed their content of the total phenolic compounds, flavonol, and flavonoids to illustrate the correlation between contents and antioxidant activities. This study provides the evidence that the antioxidant activities of AE were greater than LE. Furthermore, the antioxidant activities of AE and LE were also closely related to the contents of total polyphenols, flavonoids and flavonols. According to the literatures, retention of water in the stratum corneum of skin epidermis plays an important role in regulation of skin function. Loss of water may decline skin appearance gradually and lead to irregular skin disorders. The root extract of LE is known for its anti-bacterial, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, and free radicals scavenging activity. However, the potential skin care effect of LE is not clear. The third part of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy and skin barrier repairing activity of LE. The preliminary results indicated that LE show slight moisturizing effect on skin hydration and significant skin repairing capacity by decreasing the value of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The skin irritated effects induced by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) were inhibited by treatment with LE after SLS stimulation. It is suggested that LE treatment is probably benefit for protection of skin barrier.