| Summary: | 碩士 === 樹德科技大學 === 應用設計研究所 === 93 === In recent years, in the dye industry environments the pollution made by synthesized dyestuff are evident everywhere. This research applied a particular natural dye material—the pollen of one kind of lilies, that is, Acapulco, as experimental dye materials. The pollen was dried and soaked in 95% alcohol, and extracted to get its natural color dye. Next, linen, cotton, silk, wool, paper, wood, rubber, shells of coconut were used as dyed objects to do cold dyeing tests, heavy metal inspections, safety and anti-bacterial evaluation. In addition, patterns were designed for the objects above.
This study explores the hue and dyeing effects of Acapulco. The pollen was added with dyeing assistants, such as salt, vinegar and sodium bicarbonate as well as mordant, such as Aluminum Acetate, Copper(II) Acetate and Iron(II) Acetate for the experiment. The traditional plant boiling process was substituted by cold dyeing method.
1. In the evaluation of colorfastness to washing, a test of colorfastness to washing was proceeded with the test pieces before and after the changes of quality according to AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Launder.
2. In color fastness to light, standard multi-light source was adopted to contrast to the color light D65 and UVA in order to get a LAB value. Different test color in different duration of time is made, such as without light source, two hours, five hours, eight hours, 24 hours and 48 hours. The effective results were also evaluated with CIE1976L*a*b color space.
3. In the assessment of the anti-ultraviolet ray of the dye liquid, the wave length of the visible spectrum absorbability was gained by means of the spectrum instrument so as to realize the fastness of the absorbability.
4. The results is used JIS L 1902-1998. The results show that lily pollen has effect of antimicrobial.
The results of the experiment are as follows: the color of lily pollen belongs to yellow system, brighter with salt, much brighter with acid, better fastness, higher dyeing absorbability with Aluminum Acetate, Copper(II) Acetate and Iron(II) Acetate, but no obvious difference when without these mordant. The colorfastness to washing of cotton and linen is between 3-4 degree, silk 2-3 degree, as mid level. In the light color fastness, wool and silk has worse fading situation. The fading situation is higher when tested with UVA than with D65. Among them, cotton and linen is better. It proves to be valuable in craftwork.
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