| Summary: | 碩士 === 國立臺灣海洋大學 === 食品科學系 === 93 === The purpose of this thesis are to explore the efficacy of an anti-aging and whitening cosmetics that containing different extracts of Chinese herbal remedies composed of Ligusticum chuanxiong, Ocimum basilicum L., Poria cocos, Angelica dahurica and Chyueh laau chyuh jouh fang with different solvents. The study includes： 1. To evaluate the efficacy of anti-aging and whitening of the extracts and optimize the combination of Chinese herbal remedies by observation the chelating ferrous ions capacities, tyrosinase inhibition and the scavenging capacity of DPPH radical, hydrogen peroxide and superoxide radical also determining cells viability of the cultured fibroblast and melanin inhibition of the cultured melanocyte, 2. To prepare and characterize the cream products containing different extracts of Chinese herbal remedies extracts. The characteristics of cream products studied including storage stability, water holding capacity, skin elasticity, skin whitening, skin roughness and safety test. The results obtained are:
The Chelating ferrous ions capacities, the scavenging effects for DPPH radical and superoxide radical, increased with increasing the concentration of the extracts of Chinese herbal remedies. The 95% ethanol extracts of Ligusticum chuanxiong, Ocimum basilicum L., Angelica dahurica and the 50% ethanol extracts of Poria cocos and Chyueh laau chyuh jouh fang had the highest scavenging effect for DPPH radical and superoxide radical than the other two extracts of Chinese herbal remedies.
Cell viability results showed the extracts concentration between 1.95- 500 μg/ml with different solvents showed no significant different on CDD-966-SK and A 375 viability. Chinese herbal remedies extracts revealed 80% inhibition on melanin content of A 375 at ≦250 μg/ml and 50- 70% inhibition on melanin content of A 375 at 250-1,000 μg/ml.
The stabilities of cosmetic product containing with or without Chinese herbal remedies extracts were stable for sonication (135 W, 42KHz, 5 min), for centrifuging (3000 rpm, 30 min), and for more than two months at high temperature (50�aC) storage. The pH of cream products did not change significantly. These results showed that cream product had good stability.
pH of cream products containing different concentrations of Chinese herbal remedies extracts are between 5.6-5.9. The safety test resulted in no erythema based on the Daize score test. Water holding capacity in terms of electrical capacitance ratio were higher for those containing Chinese herbal remedies extracts than that of the control. Skin eleasticity (R2, R8) for those whom have applied the cream containing Chinese herbal remedies extracts increased over time during four weeks test period especial for those applying cream product containing the 50% ethanol extracts of Chyueh laau chyuh jouh fang extracts showed significant better results. Skin whitening effect increased over time during four weeks test period and did show a significant difference for melanin index. skin roughness decreased over time during four weeks test period and did show a significant difference for skin roughness index.
|
|---|
