The Origin of Tartar Style and Its Impact on Women’s Clothing in The Tang Dynasty

• Main Authors: Feng , Dai, 豐黛
• Other Authors: Professor Yu-Ching Wang
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2004
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/68746595207039004811

碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 92 === The present thesis studies the historical background of Tartar style, its influence on women’s clothing in the Tang dynasty, and the characteristics of the Tartar style. The rulers of Tang dynasty were known for their open-mindedness and kept an enlightened way of life. As a result, the Tang dynasty was most successful in Chinese history to absorb and assimilate foreign cultures. Traditionally, Chinese costumes were used as important symbols to differentiate people according to their status and hierarchy. Costumes were considered by the ruling class as an integral part of etiquette and law. The relative free atmosphere of Tang society emboldened its women to pursue “beautifulness” in their clothing and thus achieve a break-through from the tradition of “costume distinction between men and women, between the noble and the commoner, and between the alien and the Chinese”. The Tartar maintained a matriarchal society. This apparently helped women of the Tang dynasty to broaden their space of activities. They were able to wear openly men’s dress, show their fondness in Tartar clothing, and ignore the clothing distinction between the noble and the commoner. The legacy of Tang costume is still reflected in Chinese women’s dress today. The last part of the thesis compares the influence of Tartar style and the highly westernized design of women’s clothing in modern times. The prospect of cultural assimilation in costume design is explored.