A Study of Chinoiserie upon Western Fashion in 1980s

• Main Authors: Shu-Hui Wu, 吳淑慧
• Other Authors: Yi-Meei Wang
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 2003
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/26901629738897411864

碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 91 === China plays a more important role in all aspects than before, and meanwhile has a powerful influence upon the whole world as well when the worldwide focus is turned on Asia in 1980s . However, the worldwide fashion of Chinoiserie seems to symbolize the reflect to the current situation. That is the fashion of Chinoiserie is guided by western fashion designers no matter in high fashion or in street fashion. This thesis dedicates to the study of exploring the application of Chinoiserie to western fashion in 80s of twentieth century . This research will proceed with the following four main directions : The first one is about the exploring of the founding origin of Chinoiserie and its development. The second one is that Chinoiserie is influenced by postmodersim to present a technique of old culture and new look. The third one focus on the analysis of time background in 1980s . The fourth one is about the analysis and observation of the designing features and creative skills of Chinoiserie fashion styles in western world within ten years . There are several peaks individually in 1984, 1986 and 1989 as for the fashion trend of Chinoiserie in 1980s . This research gains the main discovery from the observation and analysis of the writing contents and visual photographs of fashion magazine. Firstly , the fashion designers often draw inspiration from Chinese clothing in1980s, such as “ luxury clothes of Manchu Dynasty”, “cheongsan dress of Shanghai”, “Mao suit” and “ blue China worker’s clothes of People’s Republic of China”, “ red guard uniforms of Culture Revolution period”, “robes of China Buddhism” and “clothes of China minority nationality” . Besides , designers obtain inspiration from fine art handicrafts of China historical relics, such as “scenery of flowers and birds painting ”, “painting of calligraphy” , “picture and color of Chinese implements ” are used in fabric design , and “ the shape of Chinese implements ” is applicated in the detail of designing clothes ( including blue-white pattern of porcelain, color and weave of bamboo boxes, shape of screen folding and effect of Chinese fan opening ) .