| Summary: | 碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝學系 === 90 === Taiwanese local cultural study has been predominating these years. Hakka study prospers in the sphere of local cultural study. Due to the idiosyncrasy of Hakka culture, the study of Hakka life style in Mainland China was initiated since 19th century. So far the studies of Hakka’s origin and migration are well done. This research focuses on Hakka female attire. The purposes of this research are: 1) to investigate the characteristics of Hakka female attire by means of customs, life style and culture; 2) to scrutinize the reasons of different Hakka female attires because of northern/ southern location and historical changes.
The methodology of this research is archive investigation in history study. The documents are collected from the archive since Ching Dynasty, scholars’ researches, relevant papers and newspapers. The pictures are from museums, connoisseurs, researchers’ publishing, old photos, newspapers and magazines. Moreover, There is field study to interview old people to know the past life style, customs and attires in Hakka residence, such as Taoyuan, Miaoli, Liudui in Kaohsiung, Pintung area. Some old photos and attires are copied, photographed and measured.
Taiwanese Hakka emigrated from the connection area of three provinces─Fujian, Jiangxi, Guangdong since Ming and Ching Dynasty. In this way, the customs are derived from Hakka people in Mainland China. They lived on agriculture and dressed the same with Hakka people in Mainland China at that time. Hakka traditional female attire before 1945 includes “du-dou”, “da-jin-shan”, “da-dan-ku”. The major differences from other ethnic groups are hairstyle and shoes. “San-ba-tou” is Hakka female hairstyle in formal dress, and the pattern is high. As for the shoes, Hakka women wear normal sandals because they don’t have foot-bindings like Han women and Min-nan women. Therefore, hairstyle and shoes are Hakka characteristics in terms of ethnicity.
The major differences of northern and southern Hakka traditional female attires are full length, sleeve length, collar decoration and color. 1) Full length of southern female attire is longer than knees, while the northern only covers bottoms. 2) Sleeve length of the southern female attire is longer than arms, so women have to fold the sleeves, while the northern sleeve length is three-quarter to long length. 3) As for collar decoration, southern bound is from front piece to side seam, named “lan-gan”, while northern beside the neckline and front opening are with same-cloth bound and face hem. Few formal dresses are with different-color bound. 4) In terms of color, southern female attires are almost blue or black, while northern attires are various, blue, black, dun and patterned cloth.
The styles of attire change with time. In Taiwan, no matter in the north or in the south, Hakka traditional female attire isn’t as prevalent as before. The main reasons are: 1) the vogue of westernization in colonial era, 2) the pursuit for modernization after establishing Republic of China, 3) the Japanization program during World War II, 4) the popularity of mandarin dress and western thought after 1945. Nowadays traditional Hakka female attires are merely seen in festivals, activities, and fashion style.
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