| Summary: | 博士 === 靜宜大學 === 應用化學研究所 === 89 === For many years the cosmetic industry has been growing with the improvement of scientific technique, social economics and culture,therefore various kinds of the multi-functional, high-tech cosmetics have been put forth by the new ideas
based on the old ones. Obviously, cosmetics have become the products of body care and the necessities of daily life, so the strict requirement for the product stability, safety and efficacy, which ensures the consumers’ benefit,
is the expectation of the public. The purpose of this study is based on the need for the research and development of cosmetics, and hope to develop the ways and the methods of cosmetic efficacy tests. In the efficacy test of melanin inhibitors, the skin cells such as keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts were grown by using the cell culture technique, testing the activity effect on mushroom tyrosinase and the tyrosinase in human melanocytes and also the amount of melanin produced by melanocytes. The study of the efficacy tests of moisturizers is to measure stratum corneum hydration, transepidermal water loss, sorption and desorption by skin and the hygroscopicity of the reagents under different relative humidity.The basic tests of cells have shown that from the human skin cell provided in the test according to the cell generations, keratinocytes are between the second and the sixth generation, melanocytes are between the second and the fifth, and fibroblasts are between the second and the eighth (or more than the eighth). The cultivated skin cell irradiated by different types of ultraviolet ray (UV ray) would inhibit the growth of the cell. Among these, the inhibition of the growth rate of the fibroblasts irradiated by UV–A and UV–B is more than that of keratinocytes and of melanocytes.The results of the melanin inhibitor test have shown that although Probucol at 20μM will has slight inhibition on the tyrosinase activity of melanocytes, there are no influences on the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and the amount of the melanin produced by melanocytes. The results in the efficacy tests of moisturizers have shown that xylo-oligosaccharide and hyaluronic acid have significant effect of increasing stratum corneum hydration of normal skin at 20℃ and 25℃, and the effect at 25℃ is more significant than that at 20℃. In addition, the effect on dry skin is more significant than that on normal skin. Lactic acid has significant effect on increasing stratum corneum hydration of normal skin and dry skin at 20℃ and 25℃.However, the increase of stratum corneum hydration by these reagents is not related to the reduction of transepidermal water loss. The skin sorption-desorption test has shown that chitosan, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid can delay water desorption and promote water-holding capacity of skin. The result in the hygroscopicity test of reagents has shown that xylo-oligosaccharide chitosan, and hyaluronic acid have good hygroscopicity.
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