A Study on Optimal Combinations of the Facce Material and Interlining of the Men's Winter Suit - Based on Objective Evaluation Methods

• Main Authors: Lin, Chich-Hsiang, 林致祥
• Other Authors: Chiao, Jaw-Hua
• Format: Others
• Language: zh-TW
• Published: 1996
• Online Access: http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/77923354139927224267

碩士 === 輔仁大學 === 織品服裝研究所 === 84 === The Western suit has become the most popular intrnational dress for men today. In our industialized Taiwan society wearing suits is a common phenomenoc in men's daily life. During the late 1980's Taiwan men's wear producers faced great pressure from changes in the domestic manufacturing stucture and competition from overseas. In the 1990's the imports had increased to such a degree that the local industry suffered drastically. Under the strong competition of the imports, our local suit industry's timely reaction is curcial. The quick response method supported by an up-to-date product information and marketing/sales system will be the only way of survival. Total control of information related to the manufacture of the suit is an indispensable condition. Therefore, it is very important and urgent to set up a complete information system aout the suti. Although this country has production experiences for many years, such information systems do not exist and related research in this area is highly insuffcient. The main objective of this study is to evaluated various combinations of face materials and interlinings in order to set up guidelines for the dimensional stability, appearance, and handle of men's winter suit. Another objective of this study is to set up a research model for future studies in this area. The results of this research are as follows: Using the KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics) objective evaluation system, the characteristics of the face material, interlining, and bonded fabrics have been obtained. There ae five parameters: sponing and cutting method of the face material, resin density of the interlining, temperature and pressure of the press condition. Their relative importance was evaluated by the ANOVA and T Multit-test. The results show that sponging strongly influences th softeness and total handle value of the face material. The cutting method affects the stiffness and shrinkage after washing in both warp and weft of the face material significantly. The resin density changes the thickness, weight, smoothness, softness and total handle value of the interlining. The temperature influences the peeling strength, and shrinkage after dry cleaning in both warp and weft of the bonded strength, and shrinkage after dry cleaning in both warp and weft of the bonded fabrics. But the pressure does not affect the bonded fabrics s-ignificantly. This study also compares its results with the face material of Japanese high class men's winter suit in four important features: stiffness, smoothness, softness, and total handle value. The performance of samples are comparable to the Japanese high class suit except for the stiffness of the bonded fabrics, which is due to the difference in the resin density. It is obvious then that the face material and bonded fabrics in this research meet the high quality standard of the Japanese men's winter suit, but the latter lack the value of definition in bonded fabrics. Thus, these results also show us the high value and the necessity of this research. It is believed that the results obtained in this research related to the characteristics of bonded fabrics constitute a further contribution to the studies made by Japanese which are limited to research on face material of the men's winter suit. Cluster analysis revealed that the bonded fabrics could be meaningfully grouped into seven clusters. The bonded fabrics within each experimental cluster yielded their own characteristics depending on the face material, interlining and press condition combinations. Based on these characteristics, the seven clusters could be matched with relevant parts in men's winter suit. After comparing seven differently bonded fabrics with the Japanese high class men's winter suit in terms of stiffeness, smoothness, sofness and total handle value, the first cluster was shown to yield optimal results. In addition to the objective evaluations presented above, this study also included washing and dry cleaning experiments to determine changes in shrinkage percentage and dimensional stability in face material and bonded fabrics. The peeling strength of bonded fabrics was tested by the peeling test The strike through/back situation of the bonded fabrics was measured by the permeate feature test. The problem of aging and the degree of color change of bonded fabrics was examined by the weather resistance test and color change measuremnet.