Variability of distributions of wave set-up heights along a shoreline with complicated geometry

• Main Authors: T. Soomere, K. Pindsoo, N. Kudryavtseva, M. Eelsalu
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Published: Copernicus Publications 2020-09-01
• Series: Ocean Science
• Online Access: https://os.copernicus.org/articles/16/1047/2020/os-16-1047-2020.pdf

<p>The phenomenon of wave set-up may substantially contribute to the formation of devastating coastal flooding in certain coastal areas. We study the appearance and properties of empirical probability density distributions of the occurrence of different set-up heights on an approximately 80&thinsp;km long section of coastline near Tallinn in the Gulf of Finland, eastern Baltic Sea. The study area is often attacked by high waves propagating from various directions, and the typical approach angle of high waves varies considerably along the shore. The distributions in question are approximated by an exponential distribution with a quadratic polynomial as the exponent. Even though different segments of the study area have substantially different wave regimes, the leading term of this polynomial is usually small (between <span class="inline-formula">−0.005</span> and 0.005) and varies insignificantly along the study area. Consequently, the distribution of wave set-up heights substantially deviates from a Rayleigh or Weibull distribution (that usually reflect the distribution of different wave heights). In about three-quarters of the occasions, it is fairly well approximated by a standard exponential distribution. In about 25&thinsp;% of the coastal segments, it qualitatively matches a Wald (inverse Gaussian) distribution. The Kolmogorov–Smirnov test (<span class="inline-formula"><i>D</i></span> value) indicates that the inverse Gaussian distribution systematically better matches the empirical probability distributions of set-up heights than the Weibull, exponential, or Gaussian distributions.</p>