Nearshore Wave Dynamics at Mangalia Beach Simulated by Spectral Models

• Main Authors: Iulia Alina Anton, Liliana Rusu, Catalin Anton
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Published: MDPI AG 2019-07-01
• Series: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
• Subjects: Romanian coastal zone; Mangalia beaches; significant wave height; mike spectral waves; SWAN
• Online Access: https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/7/7/206

The objective of this paper is to present an integrated picture of the relationship between the waves and the modifications induced by them in the Romanian shoreline. Thus, the hydrodynamic processes at the Mangalia beaches, located in the southern side of the Romanian nearshore, are simulated using the modeling system Mike 21 SW (MIKE 21 Spectral Waves), developed by the Danish Hydration Institute (DHI). This is one of the newest spectral wave models, which can be used for regional- and local-scale simulations. The model has been calibrated and validated using buoy measurements. The analysis of the statistical parameters shows a good match between the model and the observed data. Furthermore, a model to compare the differences that occur on the beach profiles between the cold and warm seasons was developed. The results obtained indicate a reinforcement of the coastal erosion in the winter, when the waves are stronger (especially in January and February).