An Operational Wave System within the Monitoring Program of a Mediterranean Beach

• Main Authors: Andrea Ruju, Marinella Passarella, Daniele Trogu, Carla Buosi, Angelo Ibba, Sandro De Muro
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Published: MDPI AG 2019-02-01
• Series: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
• Subjects: operational system; wave forecast; wave modelling; Mediterranean Sea; monitoring program; beach management
• Online Access: https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/7/2/32

This work assesses the performance of an operational wave system in the Mediterranean Sea by comparing computed data with measurements collected at different water depths. Nearshore data measurements were collected through a field experiment carried out at Poetto beach (Southern Sardinia, Italy) during spring 2017. In addition to coastal observations, we use intermediate and deep water wave data measured by two buoys: one situated North-West of Corsica and the other in the Gulf of Lion. The operational wave system runs once a day to predict the wave evolution up to five days in advance. We use a multi-grid approach in which a large grid extends over the entire Mediterranean basin and a fine grid covers the coastal seas surrounding the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. The comparison with measurements shows that the operational wave system is able to satisfactorily reproduce the wave evolution in deep and intermediate waters where the relative error of the significant wave height is 17%. The error exceeding 25% in coastal waters suggests that the use of a finer grid and the coupling with an atmospheric model able to catch local effects is advisable to accurately address nearshore wave processes driven by coastal wind forcing.