The Influence of Free Long Wave Generation on the Shoaling of Forced Infragravity Waves

• Main Authors: Theo Moura, Tom E. Baldock
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Published: MDPI AG 2019-09-01
• Series: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
• Subjects: Long (infragravity) waves; forced waves; bound waves; shoaling; dissipation
• Online Access: https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/7/9/305

Different conceptual models for forced infragravity (long) waves exist in the literature, which suggest different models for the behavior of shoaling forced waves and the possible radiation of free long waves in that process. These are discussed in terms of existing literature. A simple numerical model is built to evaluate the wave shape in space and time during shoaling of forced waves with concurrent radiation of free long waves to ensure mass continuity. The same qualitative results were found when performing simulations with the COULWAVE model using the radiation stress term in the momentum equation to force the generation and propagation of bound waves. Both model results indicate a strong frequency dependence in the shoaling rate and on the lag of the total long wave with respect to the forcing, consistent with observations in the literature and more complex evolution models. In this approach, a lag of the long wave is only observed in the time domain, not in the space domain. In addition the COULWAVE is used to investigate dissipation rates of incident free and forced long waves inside the surf zone. The results also show a strong frequency dependence, as previously suggested in the literature, which can contribute to the total rate of decay of the incident forced wave after short wave breaking.