Development of cosmetic formulations containing glucan polymer of Cassava (Manihot esculenta): stability and sensory analysis

• Main Authors: Luisa M. Manço, Daiane G. Mercurio, Maísa O. Melo, Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Published: ALIES - Associação Lusófona para o Desenvolvimento da Investigação e do Ensino das Ciências da Saúde 2014-12-01
• Series: Journal Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research (BBR)
• Subjects: glucan biopolymer; stability; sensory properties; cosmetic
• Online Access: http://www.alies.pt/BBR%20Editions/Vol-12-1-2015/art8_12n1.pdf
• ISSN: 2182-2360; 2182-2379

The aim of this study was the development, rheological behaviour determination, and sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations containing glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta), a tensor agent that was proposed to produce an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. For this purpose, formulations were developed and supplemented or not with 4 % of hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract and submitted to preliminary stability tests. These formulations were evaluated in terms of rheological behaviour over 90 days. Sensory analysis was carried out through a research with 20 cosmetic consumers who answered a questionnaire regarding their perception to the cosmetic qualities. The formulations presented pseudoplastic behavior and were considered stable in the physical stability studies, with the exception of the gel formulation based on Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer. The formulations were well evaluated in the sensory parameters. The gel formulations based on Polyacrylamide, C13- 14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 were stable and presented the best sensory profile in some evaluated parameters, such as spreadability, smoothness and skin moisturizing, and can be considered an appropriate vehicle for formulations containing hydrolysed Manihot esculenta tuber extract.